From Almaty we take the bus towards our final destination, Kyrgyzstan’s capital Bishkek. A city that boldly mixes both old and new. It is the first and only time during the trip that we see old Lenin standing as a statue, and we learn that the reason it has not been removed is that a law was enacted to protect it. It is considered part of the country’s cultural tradition.
Kyrgyzstan is the only country in the region that has a relatively functioning democracy. And that seems to be because conflicts arose in the years after independence, leading to major protests and even a civil war. To achieve peace, guarantees of participation in decision-making and democracy were required, and that seems to be holding up fairly well. We don’t know for sure whether that’s the reason, but Bishkek seems to be the city where the residents look the happiest.
Bishkek of course also has its fair share of Stalinist concrete palaces, bombastic monuments and towering flagpoles. And of course a national hero on horseback. This one is called Manas and is a mythical figure in an ancient epic that has been used time and again since independence, to create unity in the country. Kyrgyzstan’s third-largest city, Jalalabad, was renamed Manas in 2025, the airport in Bishkek is called Manas, and so on.
Manas is said to have been a nomad and warrior, apparently an ideal worth aspiring to for today’s young Kyrgyz.
Next to the Manas Monument in Ala-Too-Square, which is the heart of the city, people sit on benches and steps, munching on snacks they have brought along and watching the street life. The atmosphere could probably be described as lively!
Our hotel is located in a part of the city that looks like a suburb under construction, but you only have to cross a road and you are in the city center. We pass an arena and a football stadium, look at squirrels in the beautiful oak park and buy take-away coffee in the mall by Ala-Too. And we sit down, too.
Another lovely place to visit is the area in front of the Philharmonic house, with beautiful plantings and water features. Many of those strolling here are young people, which may of course be because Bishkek International University is right next door.
In front of the Philharmonic building stands… yes, you guessed right, Manas. He helpfully holds out a sword for the birds to perch on.
Bishkek feels like the most modern city of the ones we visited. A real city, relatively free from ostentatious fantasy palaces. A city we can relate to.
Bishkek isn’t a very big city, but the traffic is among the worst we’ve ever seen. Constant traffic gridlock, hopeless intersections where cars from all directions try to get through at the same time, and a never-ending symphony of honking horns.
On our last day in Bishkek we go on a long excursion in the surrounding mountains. They are not as dramatic as the Hissar Mountains, but they still have surprises. First there is a suspension bridge that has no real significance for the local transport network, it’s is just a scary experience for tourists. It is long and wobbly and leads over a deep ravine. if you fall off it’s a long way down to the bottom.
We manage to get across the suspension bridge and move on to a kind of camp on a mountain slope. Small round houses that are presumably meant to resemble yurts climb up the slope above a dining hall built like a gigantic yurt. Here we eat a ”traditional nomadic lunch” witch is roughly the same soup called ”laghman” that we have eaten before. Clear broth, noodles and boiled pieces of meat. We have also tasted the bread ”boorsok” before, small fried pieces of dough that tastes like donuts. Lunch here always comes with a salad consisting mostly of fresh and sweet tomatoes.
But then comes the dividing line – fermented mare’s milk. Some in the group grimace but drink, someone is disgusted. Personally, I think it tastes sour in a slightly unpleasant way.
We finish the excursion in Ala Archa Nature Park. First a cable car ride up to a platform with beautiful views of the surrounding area. And afterwards, we explore nature on our own. But it’s not quite as idyllic as it sounds. The park is a mix of nature and family entertainment, and there are lots of visitors, so it’s not a meditative nature experience. But we get some fresh air into our lungs and get to photograph a few cute little red squirrels getting ready for their winter coats. So we’re happy!
