Travels with V

Bornholm

Island in the sun

We made this journey a couple of years ago, and naturally some things have changed since. There seems to be a lot more good restaurants now, for instance.  But I did some fact checking and surprisingly most of what we experienced back then is still there. Which is typical for this island, where time moves in it’s own pace. 

HAMMERSHUS CASTLE RUIN

Bornholm is an island in the Baltic sea just south of the southern tip of Sweden. So even if it’s a Danish island the quickest and best way to get there is by fast ferry from Swedish Ystad. The journey takes ca 80 minutes and You can bring the car, which is necessary if you want to roam the whole island.

THE FAST FERRY WE WENT WITH (SINCE REPLACED BY A SIMILAR ONE)
THE CAPTAIN (NOW PROBABLY ALSO REPLACED)

On Bornholm the ferry arrives in the “capital” Rønne. But we didn’t see much of this town except the juice factory that delivers fresh drink all over Denmark.

Just outside Rønne there’s an airfield that has daily flights from Copenhagen. And note that bicycle is a fantastic means to travel on this relatively flat island!

STAMMERSHALLE BATH HOTEL

This i where we stay, the Stammershalle bath hotel on the road between Gudhjem and Allinge on the north coast. This combination of Gourmet restaurant and hotel is a prime example of a trend in Denmark where skilled entrepreneurs from famous restaurants take over old establishments by the coast. You can read about it here.  

Bornholm has for a number of years suffered from decline in year-round inhabitants because young people  move to the mainland and the houses are turned into summer residences. So the island is today a true summer paradise. But there are forces to turn this around. In most of the towns and larger villages you can’t buy a house unless you become a year-round resident. This has led to more activities in off-season, and a town like Svaneke is now filled with productive people, artists, gem makers, glass blowers and brewers. And restaurants, art galleries and shops are selling their products. 

Bornholm is a lot about food.  Everywhere on the island you find local products like cheese, beer, sweets, meat and fish, most often smoked fish. A successful enterprise is  Hammershus lamb, a company that raises sheep and lets them graze out on the islands greens (keeping the landscape open) and selling the meat directly to local restaurants and private consumers via their own farm shop. To keep the heards together a couple of clever sheep dogs are at work, and it’s great to see them running around doing their job. 

FINE DINING AT LE PORT

The landscape on Bornholm is varied and rich, and there are some fine forests here with exotic and domestic trees. In springtime the forest grounds are covered with light green garlic-smelling ramson .

Top 5 on Bornholm:

  1. See: Hammershus castle ruin, Österlars round church.
  2. Stay &Eat: Stammershalle Badehotel, restaurang Le Port (leport.dk), Kadeau Bornholm i Aakirkeby and of course a fish smokehouse,  for example Svaneke Røgeri.
  3. Experience: Nordboholm nature park, Döndalen valley (waterfall), Ride with horse and carriage in Almindingen forest with Rytterknægten (lookout tower), Ekkodalen valley with Rokkestenen. Rappelling or zipline at lake Opalsøen.
  4. Bath: By Dueodde in the south you’ll find the best sandy beach.
  5. Art: Bornholm Art museum.

History lession:

Why is Bornholm a Danish island when it’s so close to Sweden? Well, large parts of southern Sweden were Danish until 1658, when a war and a peace treaty made them Swedish. This included Bornholm, but the islanders weren’t so cool with this. They rebelled, and managed to capture the Swedish  garrison on the island. And it’s been Danish ever since.

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Jag som gör den här resebloggen heter Lars Aldman och jag har tidigare jobbat som journalist mm på SR och SVT. Och "V" som jag reser med är min älskade hustru Veronica, journalist och fotograf.

Vår favoritsysselsättning är att resa runt i världen och se andra kulturer och samhällen. I flera år har vi äventyrat i Asien, Afrika och Latinamerika, och även naturligtvis i Europa. Och vi vill gärna dela med oss av våra erfarenheter och glädjeämnen, och hoppas att ni vill följa med oss!

PS. På sajten aldmangallery.com hittar ni mina bilder från både när och (mest) fjärran. Djur, natur, samhällen och människor.
Resebloggar finns det gott om men vi har en lite annan tanke med våra berättelser. Vi vill främst beskriva våra upplevelser av udda platser, människorna vi möter och miljöer som är rätt annorlunda mot vad vi möter hemma.

Därför hamnar vi ibland i avlägsna indianbyar i Guatemalas berg eller bland andetroende bybor på en ö i Indonesien. Men också på mer kända platser som Machu Picchu i Peru eller sandstränderna i Goa. Allt sett genom våra ögon och kameror.

Den som vill ha restips får också sitt - varje resmål har en avdelning med sånt vi kan rekommendera. Eller undvika. Vårt fokus är framför allt att sporra er läsare att göra som vi - resa rätt ut i den vida världen.

Jag heter Lars Aldman och har bl a jobbat som journalist mm på SR och SVT.  Och "V" som jag reser med är min älskade hustru Veronica, som också är journalist och fotograf. Vi älskar att resa och uppleva andra kulturer. I flera år har vi rest omkring i världens fyra hörn och vi vill gärna dela med oss av våra erfarenheter och glädjeämnen på dessa upptäcktsfärder. Hoppas ni vill följa med!

Hej!

Vår senaste resa gick till Albanien där vi under tre veckor upplevde detta okända men så spännande och vackra land. Från de hisnande höga bergen i norr, de gamla städerna och de djupa floddalarna i landets mitt, till de långa stränderna med sitt klara vatten i söder. Klicka på Albanien och läs om landets dramatiska historia och dess vänliga och gästfria invånare.

NYTT!

There's now a new addition to the blog, about our trip to Albania. During three weeks we traveled up and down this unknown but beautiful country. From the high mountains in the north to the ancient towns and the deep valleys inland, to the sandy beaches and the clear green water in the south. Click on Albania in the map and read about its dramatic history and kind and hospitable people.

NEW!
I'm Lars Aldman from Sweden. I worked for many years at the Swedish National TV and Radio, but now my main interest is traveling around the world with "V", my lovely wife Veronica, who is a freelance journalist and photographer.
For the last ten years we have traveled through Asia, Africa, Latin America, and Europe. We love to experience different cultures and societies and we hope you'll join us!