Travels with V
Tanzania, Zanzibar & Pemba
On slave trade and a princess
Zanzibar, Stonetown part one
We drive back to Arusha, the starting point of our safari, but now we fly east, past Kilimanjaro and out into the sea. We’re heading into Zanzibar, that once was part of an Arabian sultan’s empire, Zanzibar infamous for its slave markets and famous for its spices. We fly there in a tiny plane and land in the capital of Stonetown. The houses are spotless white, their doors exquisitely carved and the streets narrow and labyrinthic.
Yes, the slave markets. Capturing and selling Africans as slaves was not the white man’s monopoly. In Stonetown slaves were sold by Arabian slave traders for many hundreds of years, it was outlawed as late as 1897. Today a Christian church is placed on the spot where the markets were held, but the gruesome cells where the captives were held before the market are still intact.
Near the church there’s a memorial created by a Swedish artist, Clara Sörnäs.
Shaken by this terrible memorial we walk around Stonetown, starting with the nearby market, a face of chaos.
We continue our walk through the narrow streets to the sultan’s palace. Here we are told the remarkable and touching story of the runaway princess Salme, the sultan’s daughter with one of his concubines. When Salme was 19 she met and fell in love with a German businessman who was her neighbour.
This happened in the mid-1800’s, and when the princess discovered that she was pregnant she fled the country, reunited with her lover that se married and eventually settled in Germany under the name “frau Emily Ruete”. But the marriage was ill-fated, her husband was killed some years later in a traffic accident. Salme, needing money for her and her kids, wrote a book called The Memories of an Arabian Princess in Zanzibar.
In Stonetown there’s also an old Arabian fort, but it’s not much to see there. Ad a famous palace called House of Wonders, which was closed when we were there. So we walk along the harbour, decline politely the offerings of plentiful souvernir salesmen and sit down at a great waterhole in a garden shadowed by tall trees.
Stonetown was the birthplace of a boy who was to become world famous under the name Freddie Mercury, we pass by his house, just an ordinary two-storey house, and that’s it. Definitely more interesting are the famous carved doors of Stonetown, here’s a collection:
Are there any more fascinations in Stonetown? Well one for sure is the sound of a Norwegian folk song in a Taarab club…