There’s plenty of possibilities for hikers on Icaria, and the trails are different in terms of difficulty. There’s a net of ancient paths running all over the island, in old times connecting the villages. We try a fairly easy route on top of the mountain ridge, partly through a forest of a rare species of oak. The stillness and the views from up here are really amazing and powerful.
Icarian food is as we have mentioned, often acclaimed in descriptions of Ikaria as a tourist destination. But we found this a mixed bag. In “our” village Maganitis there are three tavernas by the shore, but we found out the hard way that none of them really has anything to make us happy. Probably because so few tourists come here, most of their guests are locals who eat at home and then go to the taverna for a drink and a chat with the neighbours.
But close to “our” house, where we park the car there is a hand-painted sign where we recognize the words “Restaurant-Grill”. And an arrow pointing right out into the bushes. We ignored it until we reach a state of panic and never ever again want to visit the village tavernas. We get our flashlights och stomp off into complete darkness. There are no street lamps here, so it is a pitch black night.
After walking a couple of hundred meters we see a light further on by the side of the path. We walk up to it and there’s a normal villa where some light shines in the basement windows. We open a door and there is a man and a woman in a kitchen, watching TV. They look at us with some surprise when we enter and we ask: “Is this a restaurant?” –”Sure”, they say and turn on some lamps on the veranda revealing three small tables.
We order goat and horta that night, the goat in a kind of casserole. Horta is boiled greens, like spinach, with generous bouts of lemon juice. Just super tasty! So we come back again and again during our last week on Icaria. “Taverna Apostolis” is the name of the place where Loula from Albania makes genuine, fresh and nutritious Icarian food. Bless her!
I guess Maganitis is kind of extreme, and there are probably better tavernas in other villages. But you need to check with Tripadvisor before you choose. We had a fantastic lunch at Anna’s Fish tavern in Nas, that has a well earned high score on Tripadvisor. And we had a couple of great lunches at Klimataria in Agios Kirykos, where they make a fantastic moussaka. In the village square of Agios Dimitrios we had a very nice dinner at Taverna Platanos, unfortunately followed by some stomach problems. But they had a surprise bonus, while we were waiting for our meal we could turn around a corner and buy fresh baked greek bread in a bakery.
In a mountainous western part of the island, called Raches, there are many picturesque little villages and also two monasteries, both open to visitors. One of them was used as a hospital for TBC patients during the deportations. Almost all of the patients were cured thanks to a devoted doctor (who was also a deportee).
The most picturesque villages on Icaria are definitely Therma on the south coast, and Evdilos on the north. Both climb up mountainsides above little harbours with small and colourful fishing boats. Just what you expect to see in a greek village. Tavernas and cafés line the quays. People are nice and the tempo is relaxed. Which are actually just the things Icaria is so good at!
Other nice towns to visit are the “capital” Agios Kirikos, and the more touristy Armenistis. Christos Raches in the mountains, close to the vineyards, and finally little Akamatra east of Evdilos.
And the wheather in Icaria, did we mention that? Sun and 30 degrees celsius. Every day.
And finally, som more impressions from lovely Icaria:
