Travels with V

Rome

The eternal city

Rome part one

There are people, some of them friends of ours, that keep returning to Rome again and again. The love for this ancient city is like the love for an old friend. And we understand this affection because there’s something unique about this city that’s hard to put in words. There’s an openness, a feeling of being included here. 

And then of course you’re treated with all these magnificent buildings and ruins, the food and the bustling city life that always make you surprised here. Around every corner there is a new possibility. 

We’ve picked a hotel right between Trastevere district and the Vatican, a perfect place for exploration of the city.  One block from the winding Tiber river, three blocks from St Peters square. And to get further away we take bus or metro. Public transportation in Rome is excellent. We invested in Tourist Cards and use them for free rides on all kinds of transports. 

We’re walking north along the river, past the grand citadel Sant’ Angelo and further north up to Piazza del Popolo. It’s a holiday and the square is packed with people enjoying a day off. 

We continue our walk down the shopping street of Via del Corso, which in the afternoon is completely taken over by pedestrians, only a few cars pass slowly and with difficulty. We turn left and end up at Piazza di Spagna, a square that is dominated by the famous Spanish steps along its eastern side. Here i’ts so crammed it’s almost difficult to move, especially to walk up the stairs, where lots of people just sit and enjoy the sun and the crowds.  A year later sitting on the steps is forbidden by the authorities.

In the southern, pointy part of Piazza di Spagna we enter Via di Propaganda and via some narrow alleys we end up by Fontana di Trevi, the bombastic fountain where Anita Ekberg soaked herself in the movie La Dolce Vita. The fountain is a truly magnificent piece of art with its sea gods, horses, waterfalls and pools. 

Top 5 in Rome:

  1. Hotel: We stayed at Hotel la Rovere, near the Ponte Principe bridge. An excellent “design hotel” but avoid the “design” rooms, the ordinary rooms are better. Good breakfast!
  2. Best fine dining: Spirito Di Vino. Built on the foundation (and cellar!) af a thousand year’s old synagogue, this is the “slow-food”-mecka of Rome. Excellent food, excellent service and a stylish yet relaxed atmosphere. 
  3. Best trattoria/pizzeria: Ivos. Everything you expect of a busy and jolly Italian trattoria. Packed with people who want to have a good time and the best pizza you’ll find in Rome! Try to book a table in advance or expect a bit of cueing. 
  4. Best hole-in-the-wall: La Proscutteria Trevi, crammed, hams hanging from the ceiling. Order a heavenly plate of assorted charcuteries and accessories and a generous glass of great wine for pocket money.
  5. Must-see: All! Strolling through Trastevere. Gianicolo hill. Are you a cat lover – explore cat city at Lago di Torre Argentina!